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Buying a watch online has become standard practice in 2026, but it remains a thrilling exercise. You often base your decision on a handful of pixels on a screen. The seller describes the watch as "in excellent condition," but photos often tell the honest story, provided you know where to look. At Segundor, we maintain a strict standard for our own photography, precisely because we know that transparency is paramount. Below, we explain how to 'read' an advertisement and where the red flags wave. The art of hiding: Pay close attention to the angles Sellers are often masters at choosing flattering angles. A photo taken straight from the front often hides the thickness of the case or the condition of the so-called lugs. What should you specifically pay attention to? The lugs: Always ask for side-view photos. Here you can see if the case has been overly polished or if the original, sharp lines are still intact. Between the lugs: This is where most scratches occur from changing straps. Is this part consistently kept out of frame? That's often a sign. The crystal: Scratches on sapphire crystal are difficult to capture. Pay attention to reflections; often, a scratch only becomes visible when light hits it at a specific angle. The 'macro' check: Watch details that don't lie Good photos are sharp. If a seller only offers blurry photos "because the camera won't focus sharper," be wary. In 2026, almost every smartphone has an excellent macro mode. What to check Why it's important The dial Look for dust, discoloration, or hairline cracks (on enamel/lacquer). The screws Damaged screw heads indicate that an inexperienced watchmaker has been at work. The date disc Is the date perfectly centered? A crooked date can indicate that the movement needs servicing. The clasp This is where you'll find most 'desk diving' marks. It tells you how extensively the watch has been worn. Light incidence on the watch: Friend or foe? Harsh sunlight makes a watch look beautiful, but it also masks a lot. At Segundor, we prefer soft, natural light or studio lighting that reveals the true condition of the metal. Beware of overexposed photos. Too much light can "fill in" deep scratches, making the watch appear smoother than it actually is. When in doubt, always ask for a short video in which the seller slowly rotates the watch through the light. That is the ultimate litmus test for the condition of the case. The set: Box and papers in the picture If a watch is offered as a "Full Set", those accessories must also be photographed. Pay attention to the serial numbers on the papers or the warranty card. Do they match what's on the watch? For modern watches (like Rolex or Omega), the cards often feature holograms or specific fonts that are difficult to counterfeit. Conclusion: Trust your gut feeling Photos are the first step in building trust. If a seller is transparent about the flaws and clearly shows the scratches, that's often a better sign than an advertisement with only "perfect" pictures. At Segundor, we believe that an honest story lasts longest. That's why we photograph every scratch and every detail, so you know exactly what will be delivered to you. After all, a good watch has nothing to hide. Have you seen a watch online but are unsure about its condition based on the photos? Feel free to send us the link; we'd be happy to take a look with you to see if it's an honest piece.  

You're buying a pre-owned Rolex Submariner. The photos look good — case shiny, no visible scratches. But there's one question you should ask first: has this case ever been polished? That sounds innocent, but the answer can mean a difference of thousands of euros. At Segundor, we always state the finish condition — check out the current collection. Below, I explain what polishing does and how to recognize it. What happens when a Rolex is polished? Rolex designs cases with a deliberate combination of matte-brushed and high-gloss finished surfaces. The lugs of a Submariner are satin-brushed on top and polished on the side. This combination is no accident — it's craftsmanship that Rolex carefully defines for each model. When a watch goes to an external jeweler or polisher, that differentiation disappears. Everything becomes uniformly shiny. The sharp transition between brushed and polished — the hallmark of an original Rolex finish — is lost. Aggressive polishing wears down the metal itself, causing lugs to become more rounded and the case thinner. This is irreversible. Characteristics of a polished case — what to look for What you're looking at Original finish After (re)polishing Lugs Brushed top, polished side Uniformly shiny, everywhere Lug tips Sharp, angular Rounded, 'swollen' Bracelet center links Satin-brushed center Fully shiny Case side Matte surfaces visible Mirror-finish or uniform Case back engraving Sharp lines Faint, polished away Serial number (caseband lip) Deep, sharp numerals Shallow or barely legible The serial number on the caseband lip is a reliable indicator. On an original, unpolished Rolex, these numbers are sharply engraved. After multiple polishes, they become flatter — sometimes barely legible. That is a direct indication. How much value does a polished Rolex lose? As a guideline: a Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060) in excellent, original condition fetches €9,500–€11,000 pre-owned. The same reference with a polished case and rounded lugs would be more like €7,500–€8,500. That's a difference of €1,000–€2,500 for something that looks visually appealing but is technically inferior. With vintage Rolex (20+ years old), the effect is even greater. Collectors pay a hefty premium for 'unpolished' examples. Signs of wear on the original finish are then actually desirable — they tell the story. More about what makes a good pre-owned Rolex can be read in the knowledge base on segundor.com. At Segundor, we always state the condition of the finish in the product description — even if that means setting a lower price. That's how honest selling works. Frequently asked questions about polished Rolex watches Is polishing by Rolex itself also a problem? Rolex polishes cases back to original specifications during an official service. This is different from arbitrary polishing by a jeweler — Rolex knows the original finishing pattern for each model and restores it. A Rolex service therefore does not devalue the watch. Can a polished case be restored to its original finish? Rolex can restore the finish during an official service. This costs €500–€800+ and takes weeks. But for heavily polished lugs where metal has been removed, a complete return to original is not always possible. How do I know if the case has been polished when buying online? Ask for photos in daylight, on a neutral background, of the lugs and the caseband lip. A good seller will have these photos. If they are not available, that's a signal. At Segundor, we always provide detailed photos upon request. Does Segundor indicate whether a watch has been polished? Always. A polished case is mentioned in the description and accounted for in the price. No hidden defects — that's our approach. Is a polished Rolex still a good buy? That depends on your goal. If you're looking for a daily wearer without an eye for collector's value, a polished example is fine — and cheaper. If you're focused on value retention or resale, buy original finish. Check out the offerings on segundor.com/collections/all. Looking for your next watch? Check out the complete pre-owned collection on segundor.com/collections/all — technically inspected, fairly priced, and ready to wear.  

Let's be honest: we've been through a period where watches had to be big, shiny, and recognizable. They had to "pop." But in 2026, we're noticing that true enthusiasts are taking a step back. We call it Quiet Luxury, but you could also simply call it 'good taste.' It's about watches that whisper instead of shout. Watches where you're the only one who truly knows how special the piece really is. At Segundor, we are increasingly asked for models that don't immediately demand attention but exude undeniable quality. Below are a few of our favorite 'under-the-radar' gems from the current collection. The timeless standard: Rolex Datejust 126200 When you think of Rolex, you often picture gold rings. But the Datejust 126200 with its smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet (as we currently have it in our collection) is the definition of understated luxury. No frills, no flashy colors, but the perfection of a modern Rolex case. It's a watch that pairs with almost anything, but is often not even recognized as 'expensive' by a layman. It's sober, solid, and precisely why it's so chic. Japanese texture for the connoisseur: Grand Seiko "White Birch" SLGH005 For the connoisseur who enjoys details that the rest of the world overlooks, the Grand Seiko White Birch is an absolute favorite. At first glance, it looks like a steel sports watch, but as soon as the light hits that incredible dial, inspired by the birch forests near the Shizukuishi Studio, you see the depth. You don't buy this to impress your neighbor; you buy this for that moment when you glance at your wrist and enjoy the Zaratsu polishing. Sporty sobriety: Omega Speedmaster Racing Everyone knows the classic Moonwatch, but the Speedmaster Racing (like the 326.30 with its subtle 'clous de Paris' texture in the sub-dials) is a fantastic option for those who want something unique without following the beaten path. It's a technical marvel that sits compactly on the wrist. It doesn't scream for attention, but for those who do notice it, it's an immediate sign that you understand horology. Vintage allure: Rolex Datejust 16233 'Champagne' Even 'Two-Tone' (steel with gold) can be understated, provided it has the right patina. A vintage Datejust 16233 with a champagne dial from the early 90s exudes a kind of 'old nobility.' It's less flashy than a modern gold watch and has acquired a soft, warm appearance over the years. It's the perfect choice for the enthusiast who loves classic shapes that never go out of style. Why we love watches that stay 'under the radar' Model in collection Why it's 'Quiet Luxury' Rolex Datejust 126200 Smooth bezel and clean dial; ultimate sobriety. Grand Seiko SLGH005 Handcrafted texture that you only truly appreciate up close. King Seiko SDKA007 A historic design that radiates luxury without the well-known logo. Omega Speedmaster Racing A compact, sporty classic that isn't immediately recognizable as 'standard.' Conclusion: The greatest luxury is for yourself The beauty of an understated watch is its versatility. You can wear it just as easily with good jeans as with a suit. It doesn't attract unwanted attention, but for those who do notice it, it's an immediate starting point for a good conversation between two enthusiasts who understand each other. When selecting watches for Segundor, we always look for that balance. A watch must have character, but it should never overshadow you as the wearer. In a world that is becoming increasingly 'noisy,' an understated, yet very elegant, pre-owned watch might just be the most powerful statement you can make. Are you looking for a pre-owned watch that complements your style without dominating it, or are you curious about how the White Birch or the Datejust look in person? We'd be happy to show them to you.

In the world of vintage watches, there is one word that makes the heartbeat of both the purist and the investor quicken: unpolished . While a gleaming, like-new watch seems like the Holy Grail to the layman, the connoisseur in 2026 knows better. A scratch here or a dent there? No problem. But has the case been touched with a polishing disc to make it "neat again"? Then the story, and the price, changes immediately. The market has become unforgiving: authenticity trumps aesthetics. We explain why that 'unpolished' condition is one of the most important factors for the value of your next vintage acquisition. What do we really mean by 'unpolished'? An unpolished watch is a piece that has never been polished since the day of its first sale. The razor-sharp lines of the case (the lugs ) and the transitions between brushed and polished surfaces are still exactly as they left the factory decades ago. Many watches we see today have been "refreshed" during a service at the manufacturer. This involves removing a microscopic layer of metal to eliminate scratches. The result is a watch that shines like a mirror, but has lost its original shape and proportions. And in 2026, that is an expensive mistake. Why both the purist and the investor will love it For an investor, everything revolves around originality and integrity. A watch case can be compared to a sculpture: once you remove material from it, you can never put it back. Sharpness of the lugs: On an unpolished Rolex or Omega, the corners of the lugs are razor-sharp. After a few polishing sessions, these corners become 'soft' and rounded. The watch loses its powerful appearance. Preservation of the finish: The factory grinding ( brushing ) has a specific direction and depth. A machine in a local workshop can almost never perfectly replicate this without an expert noticing. The hunt for scarcity: Let's be honest: most watches in the '90s or '00s were dutifully polished at every service. A specimen that escaped that fate has become a rarity. And rarity is the engine behind profitability. The hard facts: How much does a polishing job cost you? Let's not beat around the bush: the price difference in the current market is significant. Although the exact value depends on many factors, in 2026 you will easily pay a premium for a vintage Rolex Submariner (such as a reference 5513) in honest, unpolished condition that can range from 20% to as much as 40% compared to a piece that has been treated too enthusiastically. For the purist, a watch with visible scratches but with the full, original lugs is therefore far more desirable than a "smoothly" polished watch where the holes for the push-pins almost come through the edge of the case simply because too much steel has been ground away. At Segundor, we pay extra close attention to these details. When purchasing and selecting our collection, we critically examine the lines and case thickness so that we can offer you the best selection of pre-owned watches. How do you recognize those original lines? This is where craftsmanship comes into play. Pay attention to the following points with your next purchase: The 'bevels': The slanted, polished edges on the corners of the case. Are they wide, sharp, and uniform? The thickness: Compare the four cabinet legs. Are they all the same thickness, or has one been ground painfully thinner to remove a deep scratch? The satin finish: Does the brushing on the lugs run perfectly straight towards the edge, or do you see faint, curved lines from a polishing disc? Conclusion: Buy the cabinet, not the shine At Segundor, we always advise investors: don't be afraid of a scratch. A scratch tells a story, but an over-polished case is an irreversible mistake. In a market that increasingly values ​​authenticity, the unpolished state is the ultimate insurance for your investment. An unpolished watch may not be "perfect," but it is real. And in 2026, that is exactly where the value lies.

For most people, the choice is simple: you buy a Swiss automatic or you buy a quartz. But the connoisseur knows there is a third way. A way that has given the Swiss watch industry a headache for decades: the Spring Drive. Is this the ultimate evolution of watchmaking, or a technical feat that lacks the 'soul' of a mechanical watch? At Segundor, we love both worlds, but for the collector faced with the choice, we lay the cards fairly on the table. Watchmaking technology: The ticking versus the 'Glide' A high-end Swiss automatic, such as a Rolex 3235 or an Omega Master Chronometer, relies on the familiar escapement. The iconic ticking you hear is, in fact, the constant braking and releasing of the spring energy. This is mechanical perfection, but let's be honest: it is also a source of friction and wear. Grand Seiko is taking a different approach. The Spring Drive features a traditional mainspring and gears, but replaces the ticking heart with an electromagnetic brake. The gliding second: Because there is no physical stop-start movement, the hand literally glides across the dial. It is the only technology in the world that displays the true, fluid flow of time. No jerks, no ticking, pure stillness. Precision: The hard numbers in 2026 No matter how well a Swiss chronometer is adjusted, it remains sensitive to gravity and temperature. A deviation of a few seconds per day is considered the absolute limit. A Spring Drive laughs at those figures. Thanks to the quartz reference, a Spring Drive often runs within 15 seconds per month. For the collector who views precision as the highest virtue, Japan wins on points here. Feature Swiss Automatic (High-end) Grand Seiko Spring Drive Drive Mechanical spring Mechanical spring Regulation Anchor run (physical tapping) Electromagnetic (sliding) Second hand 8 jolts per second 100% fluid Accuracy +/- 2 sec per day +/- 1 sec per day (often better) Character The classic 'heartbeat' The serene 'flow' The discussion about the 'soul of the watch' This is often the subject of discussion among collectors. Purists sometimes call the Spring Drive "a mechanical watch but with an electronic brain." They miss the mechanical heartbeat. For them, watchmaking must remain a craft without any form of electricity. At Segundor, we are a bit more neutral about that. After all, there is no battery in a Spring Drive; the power is generated by the spring itself. It is an autonomous system that has simply eliminated the disadvantages of the escapement. It is not quartz, it is mechanical perfection 2.0. Conclusion: What suits your wrist? In 2026, the battle is undecided, and that is just as well. The choice depends on what you are looking for in a collector's item: Go for the Swiss automatic if you love the centuries-old tradition, the audible ticking, and the knowledge that almost every master watchmaker in the world can service your watch. Go for the Spring Drive if you strive for the most natural representation of time and technology that pushes the boundaries of what is possible. The Swiss heartbeat never gets old, but the serene calm of a gliding Spring Drive is an experience that you, as a serious collector, must have on your wrist at least once. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Is there really no battery in it? No, 100% spring energy. The electricity is only for regulation. Does a Spring Drive wear out less quickly? Yes, due to the lack of the ticking escapement, there is less physical friction. Is the residual value good? In 2026, Grand Seiko is extremely sought after among connoisseurs. The market for Spring Drive is mature and stable. What about service? A Spring Drive often needs to go to a specialized GS service center, whereas a Rolex movement can be serviced more broadly.

Buying a pre-owned Grand Seiko is a conscious choice for many enthusiasts: no hype, just craftsmanship. You'll pay between €3,000 and €8,000 for a good example, depending on the movement, series, and condition. Rare limited editions can go for more. Grand Seiko is still undervalued in the European market—which offers opportunities for those who know what to look for. In this guide, I share what I personally check before a Grand Seiko goes into the shop, and what you, as a buyer, should pay attention to with the three movement families and the distinctive Zaratsu finish. Grand Seiko: craftsmanship from Shinshu and Shizukuishi Grand Seiko was founded in 1960 as Seiko's top-tier segment, with one goal: to create the best watch in the world. Until 2017, Grand Seiko was a line under Seiko; since then, it has been an independent brand with its own logo on the dial. Three movement families are relevant when purchasing pre-owned. The automatic 9S caliber (including the 9S65 with 72 hours power reserve) is a classic mechanical workhorse. The Hi-Beat 9S85 ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour—unusually fast and unusually smooth. The Spring Drive (9R series) is unique: a mechanical movement with an electronic regulator, accurate to ±1 second per day. The second hand glides without a tick—a signature no other brand can copy. Authenticity and finish: this is what I check myself Authenticity and condition are systematically checked. Start with the dial: Grand Seiko is known for Zaratsu polishing, a technique where surfaces are mirror-smooth without any distortion. Indices should appear sharply cut from a single piece and catch the light as if polished by a gemstone cutter. Beloved textured dials such as the Snowflake (ref. SBGA211) or Mt. Iwate (ref. SBGW253) should have a deep, even texture—no grainy print or irregularities. Check the serial number on the caseback and ask for photos of the rotor. For a Spring Drive: place the watch on the table and watch the second hand. It should glide perfectly smoothly, without any ticking. I use the checklist below for every Grand Seiko that comes in: Area of Focus What to look for Movement Spring Drive (9R series), Hi-Beat 36,000 vph (9S85) or automatic (9S65) — rotor engraving must be sharp Dial Zaratsu-polished indices catch light sharply; texture (Snowflake, Mt. Iwate) must be even and deep, no grainy print Case finish Zaratsu polishing = mirror-smooth surfaces without any distortion. Over-polished cases lose their characteristic sharp edge Spring Drive operation Gliding second hand (not ticking). Accuracy ±1 second per day — check deviation upon purchase Logo & signature Older models: 'Seiko' on dial + 'GS' on case. From 2017: only 'Grand Seiko' on dial Who is a pre-owned Grand Seiko for? Who is a Grand Seiko for? For connoisseurs who value finish more than status. You get a watch whose case is polished more sharply than a Rolex, with a movement that matches Swiss performance—often for half the price. My advice: rather buy an honest Grand Seiko with minimal signs of wear than a re-polished example where the Zaratsu surfaces have lost their characteristic sharpness. A Grand Seiko service costs €500–€800 and is often included by a good pre-owned seller. Always ask for proof of service or a minimum twelve-month warranty, and choose a seller who truly knows the brand. Do you want to delve deeper into the calibers and series? In the Segundor knowledge base, you'll find background information on Spring Drive, Hi-Beat, and what makes a good pre-owned purchase. Frequently asked questions about the pre-owned Grand Seiko What does a good pre-owned Grand Seiko cost? For a mechanical 9S-Grand Seiko (like the SBGR055), you'll pay €3,000 to €4,500. Spring Drive models such as the Snowflake SBGA211 are around €5,500 to €7,500. Hi-Beat and limited editions go up to €8,000–€12,000. Below €2,500, I become cautious—it's often an older Seiko-branded model or a piece with a hidden history. What is the difference between Spring Drive and Hi-Beat? Spring Drive (9R-caliber) combines a mechanical spring with an electronic regulator. Accurate to ±1 second per day, with a gliding second hand. Hi-Beat (9S85) is fully mechanical but ticks at 36,000 vph—twice as fast as most Swiss calibers. Spring Drive is unique in the world; Hi-Beat is classic craftsmanship at the highest level. Is Zaratsu polishing really that special? Yes. Zaratsu is a manual technique where case surfaces are pressed against a rotating tin disk. The result is mirror-smooth without any distortion—with regular polishing, you always see minimal curvature. This is visible in the sharp transitions between polished surfaces. An over-polished Grand Seiko loses precisely this characteristic, and with it, a large part of its value. Can I wear a Grand Seiko daily? Certainly. Most models are 100 meters water-resistant, the Spring Drive Diver even 200 meters. The 9S-calibers have a power reserve of 72 hours, Spring Drive 72 hours. The cases are robust and the dials are remarkably resistant to discoloration. However, avoid hard knocks on the Zaratsu surfaces—small scratches are difficult to remove without losing the sharp edges. Why is Grand Seiko cheaper than a Rolex? Mainly due to positioning and market demand. Grand Seiko has only been active in the European market since 2010 and lacks the decades of marketing of Rolex. Technically, Grand Seiko is not inferior—some collectors even find the finish better. This makes pre-owned Grand Seiko attractive: you pay for craftsmanship, not for status. Value retention is stable, although it does not increase as rapidly as Rolex. Looking for your next watch? Check out the full pre-owned collection at segundor.com/collections/all — technically inspected, fairly priced, and ready to wear.  

Buying a pre-owned Omega Speedmaster is not a decision to be taken lightly. You'll pay between €3,500 and €7,500 for a good specimen, depending on its generation, condition, and completeness. The Moonwatch has been on the Moon since 1969, but the market is also full of service dials, repolished cases, and swapped parts. I often get asked: what should I look for in a Speedmaster? In this guide, I share what I personally check before a Speedmaster enters the store – and how you, as a buyer, can spot the difference between an honest example and an expensive surprise. The Speedmaster: from racing chronograph to Moonwatch The Speedmaster Professional has existed since 1957. The variant that went into space – the ref. 105.012 – was worn by Buzz Aldrin on the Moon in 1969, and since then, the model has carried the official nickname Moonwatch. For pre-owned buyers, three calibers are interesting: the 861 (1968–1997), the 1861 (1997–2021), and the 3861 (from 2021, Master Chronometer, METAS-certified against magnetism up to 15,000 gauss). The early caliber 321 from the 1960s is collector's material and, for complete examples, can reach up to €20,000+. The case is 42mm, with the characteristic twisted lugs and a hesalite crystal – plexiglass, not sapphire – which deliberately maintains a warm, vintage feel. Authenticity and condition: what I check myself Authenticity and condition are checked step by step. Start with the caseback: the Speedmaster Professional has an engraved Hippocampus logo and, on Moonwatch variants, the text 'Flight-Qualified by NASA for all Manned Space Missions'. Next, look at the dial: tritium lume (until 1997, recognizable by 'T SWISS T' at the bottom) yellows warmly and evenly. Bright white lume on an old model is a warning sign – often a service dial or a restored example. Check the serial number on the inside of the lug at 6 o'clock. Never open the watch yourself; ask the seller for clear caliber photos. I use the checklist below for every Speedmaster that comes in: Point of attention What to look for Caliber 3861 (from 2021), 1861 (1997–2021), 861 (1968–1997), 321 (1957–1968) – caseback engraving must match production year Dial Tritium (T SWISS T, before 1997) discolors to warm cream; Super-LumiNova remains white. Tight index alignment, no cracks near the subdials Bezel Black aluminum with tachymeter. The 'Dot over 90' on early models is a well-known value detail Caseback Engraved Hippocampus logo; 'Flight-Qualified by NASA' text on Professional variants Bracelet Ref. 1171/1450 (until 1997), 1498/811 (1997–2021), 1998/840 (from 2021) – end links must fit snugly Who is a pre-owned Speedmaster for? Who is a Speedmaster for? In short: for anyone who wants to wear a chronograph with a true story, without the price tag of a Daytona. The 42mm case wears surprisingly comfortably due to its short lugs. When buying, pay attention to completeness: a full set (box, papers, extra straps) increases the price by 15–25%. My advice: rather buy an honest Speedmaster with light signs of wear than an over-polished example where the sharp transitions of the twisted lugs have been sanded away. An Omega service costs €600–€900 and is often included by serious pre-owned sellers. Always ask for proof of service or a personal warranty of at least twelve months. Do you want to delve deeper into Speedmaster calibers and references? In the Segundor knowledge base, you'll find background information on movements, dial variants, and what makes a good pre-owned purchase. Frequently asked questions about the pre-owned Omega Speedmaster What does a good pre-owned Speedmaster cost? For a Speedmaster Professional with caliber 1861 from the 2000s, you'll pay €3,500 to €6,000. The newer caliber 3861 is between €5,500 and €7,500 pre-owned. Early models with caliber 321 are collector's items and start around €12,000 – for full sets, this quickly rises to €25,000 or more. What is the difference between caliber 1861 and 3861? The caliber 1861 (1997–2021) is a further development of the legendary 861, hand-wound and proven reliable. The 3861 (from 2021) is the modern successor: Master Chronometer, METAS-certified, resistant to magnetism up to 15,000 gauss, and equipped with a silicon balance spring. The 3861 is more accurate; the 1861 feels more purely vintage. Should a Speedmaster have hesalite or sapphire? That's a personal preference. Hesalite (plexiglass) is original, has a warm appearance, and is easy to polish out scratches. Sapphire is scratch-resistant but causes reflections. The standard Moonwatch has hesalite; the Sapphire Sandwich version has sapphire front and back. Collectors usually choose hesalite due to its connection to the original space missions. Can I wear a Speedmaster daily? Yes. The Speedmaster Professional is water-resistant up to 50 meters, so washing hands and rain are not a problem. I advise against swimming, especially with older examples with aged gaskets. A hand-wound watch requires daily winding – for many enthusiasts, this is part of its charm. Have the gaskets replaced as standard during a service. Do I need a box and papers for a Speedmaster? Not for wearing; but for retaining value, yes. A full set (box, papers, extra bracelet, warranty card) increases the price by 15–25% and makes resale easier later on. If the set is missing, then a reputable seller with proof of service and their own warranty is more important. Always ask for photos of the caseback and the caliber. Looking for your next watch? Check out the complete pre-owned collection at segundor.com/collections/all – technically inspected, fairly priced, and ready to wear.  

Buying a vintage Rolex Datejust feels like a big step. You quickly pay between €6,000 and €9,000 for a good example, and the market is full of polished cases, service dials, and — let's be honest — fakes. I get asked weekly: what should I look out for? In this guide, I share what I personally check before a Datejust enters the store. No marketing spiel, just the checks that make the difference between an honest purchase and an expensive lesson. The Datejust: short story, long history The Datejust has existed since 1945, making it one of Rolex's longest-running models. For pre-owned buyers, references from the 1970s to 1990s are particularly interesting: 1601 (caliber 1570), 16014, and 16234 (calibers 3035 and 3135). These models have 36mm cases, a size that is now back in demand after years of large watches. Since 1955, there has been a cyclops lens on the date with 2.5x magnification — a Rolex signature that is often imitated, but rarely done well. An original cyclops magnifies the date significantly and appears slightly convex. With a fake, you'll see hardly any magnification, or a distorted date. Authenticity check: this is what I check myself Authenticity is checked systematically. Start with the dial: the text should be razor-sharp, and the lume plots (the luminous material) should be even and firmly set in the dial. Next, the caliber: if you don't open the watch yourself, ask the seller for clear photos of the movement. A genuine Rolex engraving on the caliber is fine and consistent. Then the serial number between the lugs at 6 o'clock — this should be deeply and neatly engraved, never shallow or grainy. I use the checklist below for every Datejust that comes in: Point of attention What to look for? Dial Sharp print, even lume plots, no cracks or stains near the text Case & cyclops lens 2.5x magnification of the date (from 1955), sharp case transitions Caliber Vintage Datejust runs on caliber 1570, 3035 or 3135 — engravings must be sharp Serial number Between lugs at 6 o'clock; check year via Rolex database Jubilee/Oyster bracelet Original end links fit seamlessly; no play or rough welds Who is a vintage Datejust for? Who is a vintage Datejust suitable for? Essentially for anyone who wants a timeless watch that can be worn every day. The 36mm case wears comfortably on almost any wrist, and the combination of steel with a white gold bezel (the well-known ref. 16234) remains elegant without being flashy. My advice: prefer an honest Datejust with some original signs of wear over an over-polished example where the sharp case transitions have been buffed away. A good service costs €450–€700 at Rolex itself and is often included by a serious pre-owned seller. Always ask for proof of service or a personal warranty of at least twelve months. Want to delve deeper into the technology? In Segundor's knowledge base, you'll find background information on calibers, references, and what makes a good pre-owned purchase. Frequently Asked Questions about the vintage Rolex Datejust What does a good vintage Rolex Datejust cost? For an honest vintage Datejust from the 80s or 90s, you'll pay approximately €6,000 to €7,999. Models with a white gold bezel or rare dials can go up to €9,000 or more. Below €4,500, I become cautious: then there's often something wrong with the papers, the dial, or the serial number. How can I be sure a Datejust is genuine? Authenticity is never determined by a single detail. Combine the checks: cyclops magnification, dial sharpness, serial number engraving, caliber photos, and the fit of the end links. When in doubt, always have the watch checked by an authorized Rolex watchmaker or a specialized seller. What is the difference between caliber 1570, 3035 and 3135? Caliber 1570 (until approx. 1977) is a purely mechanical workhorse. Caliber 3035 (1977–1988) introduced the quickset date: you can adjust the date independently of the time. Caliber 3135 (from 1988) is more robust and accurate, and is considered one of the most reliable Rolex movements ever made. Can I wear a vintage Datejust daily? Yes, provided it has been properly serviced. A Datejust is water-resistant up to 100 meters, but with vintage examples, the original seals are often aged. Have the gaskets replaced during a service and avoid hot water. After that, the watch is perfectly suitable for daily wear. However, we still advise against swimming or showering with a vintage example. Do I really need box and papers? They are good for value, but not a prerequisite for a good purchase. Many vintage Datejusts have lost their original box along the way. More important is a reliable seller, recent service, and a personal warranty. A full set increases the price by 10–20%, especially for rare references. Looking for your next watch? View the complete pre-owned collection at segundor.com/collections/all — technically inspected, fairly priced and ready to wear.  

Place two vintage Speedmasters side by side and they appear identical. But if you squint and look closely at the edge of the dial, you will discover a subtle 'kink' on the older models. This is the infamous Step Dial. In the world of the early Moonwatch (before 1974), this relief is the holy grail. It gives the dial a depth that the later 'flat dials' simply lack. What exactly is a Step Dial? The term refers to the physical indentation at the edge of the dial, precisely where the minute track begins. The dial slopes downwards like a small staircase there. This was not a deliberate design choice, but a technical remnant from the time when dials were still milled in a specific way. From around 1974, Omega switched to a more efficient manufacturing process with flat dials. Although this was 'more perfect', the Speedmaster lost some of its visual 3D effect in the process. For the purist, a flat dial sometimes feels a bit more sterile compared to the layering of a vintage example from the early 1970s. What the connoisseur pays attention to At Segundor, we thoroughly unravel these kinds of details. After all, it is not just about the looks, but about originality: The depth of the sub-dials: On an original Step Dial, the registers are often recessed more sharply. The Omega logo: Early Step Dials often feature an applied metal logo instead of a printed version. The match with the movement: A Step Dial belongs to the legendary Caliber 321 or the early Caliber 861. Period Reference Dial Feature Status in 2026 Before 1968 105,012 / 145,012 Step Dial + Applied Logo The absolute top (Cal. 321) 1968 - 1974 145,022 Step Dial + Printed Logo The most sought-after early 861 After 1974 145.022 (later) Flat Dial Stable, but less rare Why originality is all-determining in 2026 The danger with vintage Speedmasters lies in the so-called 'service parts'. A watch from 1971 ought to have a Step Dial. Does it have a later flat dial? Then the collector's value plummets immediately by thousands of euros. Nothing is more painful than a beautiful vintage case with a modern dial that fits technically, but completely misses the mark historically. Do you have your eye on a Speedmaster but are unsure if the dial matches the year of manufacture? We would be happy to take a look at the macro details with you. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) How do I recognize it immediately? Look diagonally along the record at the hour bars; do you see a distinct depression? That is the step. Are all Step Dials made of metal? No, the very latest versions already have a printed logo, but still the physical kink. Is it more expensive to maintain? No, but be extremely careful: cleaning can damage the fragile patina. What if my 1972 model doesn't have a footpeg? Then chances are the plate was replaced during a service at some point. Will these models continue to rise? Yes, scarcity of untouched dials will be the biggest price driver in 2026.